The Emma D’Arcy Soshiotsuki Emmys pairing turned a few heads on the night, but it was no accident. Stylist Rose Forde had been watching the Japanese label for years, waiting for the right moment and the right client to bring it onto a global stage.
‘What’s always interesting with Emma is that they tend to do things that other people aren’t doing,’ Forde says. Her client, House of the Dragon star Emma D’Arcy, wore a louche, wide-leg suit from FHCM-listed label Soshiotsuki to the Emmys, the brand’s first red carpet appearance. ‘We work with some of the biggest luxury houses for Emma, but we’re not always led by that,’ Forde explains. ‘Emma always wants to champion new, interesting perspectives.’
Who Is Soshi Otsuki?
If you move in menswear circles, the name Soshi Otsuki is not new. Born in 1990, Otsuki graduated from Bunka Fashion College’s Menswear Course in 2011, according to FHCM. His early work caught attention in Tokyo, earning him the 2019 Tokyo New Designer Award (again per FHCM) before his reputation spread well beyond Japan.
His tailoring draws on two unlikely reference points: the suited, slightly rumpled aesthetic of ’80s Japanese salarymen and the long, unstructured lines of ’90s Giorgio Armani. The combination is genre-bending without feeling contrived. In September 2025, Otsuki won the LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers, receiving a €400,000 endowment and a one-year mentorship programme, according to Elle. That level of recognition, from one of the most watched prizes in fashion, confirmed what a smaller audience had long suspected.
Yet despite that profile, Soshiotsuki had kept its distance from red carpet dressing. Getting the brand to agree to work with D’Arcy required early morning Zoom calls, Forde says. ‘I think they needed to trust that our intentions were going to fit theirs. They’re not necessarily in a rush to overexpose [themselves]. But I was really happy that we were able to work with them, and be the first to work with them.’
The Emma D’Arcy Soshiotsuki Emmys Look in Detail
The suit came from Soshiotsuki’s spring-summer 2027 runway, where it was originally styled with a white shirt. Forde made one key swap: a dusty rose shirt in place of the white, which she says matched the Tiffany jewels at D’Arcy’s neck and ‘made [the look] fresh and softened it somewhat.’
The construction does a lot of the talking. An oversized jacket shoulder draws the eye to a wide spread collar, which meets the top two fastened buttons of the waistcoat beneath. Below the waist, high-waisted trousers with a three-pleat drape (Forde’s own favourite detail) create what she calls ‘this huge bagginess’ in the super wide-leg frame. The whole thing moves.
That ease stood apart from most of the tailoring at the Emmys, where fits ran trimmer than the current relaxed-suit trend might have suggested. The Soshiotsuki suit went the other way entirely, and it showed.
Forde had been drawn to the label long before any red carpet conversation came up. ‘I was blown away by how they built character, their prose,’ she says. ‘Obviously, the tailoring was so beautiful. The cut hints at old-school Armani, but then it felt like [it had] all these Japanese cinematic references. And the colors! In terms of tailoring, they’ve got a really strong point of view, and they’re building a world.’
D’Arcy, for their part, was the right person to carry it. ‘The looseness, the ease of it, it’s really sexy,’ Forde says. ‘It’s really cinematic. It’s elegant, but not in a forced, done-up way. The design feels very Emma.’ As British GQ first reported, the look held its own in a room full of tailoring, and gave Soshiotsuki its first red carpet moment on its own terms.
‘What’s brilliant about their style is at first you’re like, “Oh wow, that’s super different,” but then you go back and look at it again and again and again and you understand it more,’ Forde says. ‘That’s what I think is really exciting about Emma. They will wear something which feels very current and now, and then they will wear something which feels like it will be current in the years to come.’
